On this page
- E-Bike Maintenance Checklist
- How Often Should I Clean and Lubricate My E-Bike Chain?
- Can I Use a Pressure Washer to Clean My E-Bike?
- How Do I Maintain the E-Bike Battery to Make It Last Longer?
- How Often Should I Check and Replace My E-Bike Brake Pads?
- What Tire Pressure (PSI) Should I Maintain on an E-Bike?
- A Practical E-Bike to Maintain: Himiway D5 2.0 20"
- Do E-Bike Motors Require Regular Internal Maintenance?
- How Do I Know If My E-Bike Spokes Are Loose?
- What Tools Do I Need for a Basic DIY E-Bike Maintenance Kit?
- How Do I Check for Firmware Updates on My E-Bike?
- When Should I Take My E-Bike to a Professional Mechanic?

E-Bike Maintenance Checklist
A complete e-bike maintenance routine balances standard mechanical checks—such as brakes, chain, and tires—with electric system care, including the battery, motor, wiring, and firmware.
Pre-Ride Safety Check (ABC Quick Check)
- Air: Squeeze the tires or check the recommended PSI on the sidewall. Look for embedded glass, thorns, or tread wear.
- Brakes: Squeeze the levers firmly. They should engage before the lever pulls halfway to the handlebar. Ensure the motor inhibitors cut power when the brakes are applied.
- Battery & Power: Verify the battery charge level and ensure the battery is securely locked into the frame.
- Chain & Drive: Spin the pedals backward to check for smooth chain movement and no stiff links.
- Quick Releases / Thru-Axles: Confirm the wheels and seatpost clamps are tight.
Monthly Maintenance
- Drivetrain Cleaning & Lube: Degrease the chain, cassette, and derailleur pulleys. Apply e-bike-rated chain lubricant, let it soak, and wipe off excess oil.
- Brake Wear: Inspect brake pad thickness and replace pads if they are under 1 mm. Clean rotors with isopropyl alcohol to eliminate squeals.
- Bolt Torque Check: Check the stem, handlebars, cranks, pedals, and rear rack bolts with a torque wrench.
- Spoke Tension: Squeeze adjacent spokes and tighten any loose ones to prevent wheel-truing issues caused by hub motor torque.
- Electrical Cables: Inspect the wiring harness and quick-connect plugs near the handlebars and motor for fraying, loose connections, or moisture ingress.
Seasonal & Long-Term Maintenance
Every 6–12 months or 1,000+ miles:
- Chain Stretch: Use a chain checker tool. Replace worn chains early to prevent premature wear on the expensive cassette and motor chainring.
- Hydraulic Brake Bleed: Flush and bleed the hydraulic fluid to maintain a firm lever feel.
- Firmware Updates: Connect the bike or display to the manufacturer app (Bosch, Shimano, Specialized, Bafang, etc.) to install controller and battery management updates.
- Bottom Bracket & Headset: Inspect for play, creaking, or bearing wear.
- Suspension: Clean the stanchions and perform lower-leg fork service if riding on rough terrain.
Battery Care & Storage Best Practices
- Charging: Use only the manufacturer-supplied charger. Avoid charging immediately after a hard ride while the battery is still hot.
- Temperature: Store and charge the battery indoors between 10°C and 20°C (50°F to 68°F). Never leave it in direct sunlight or freezing temperatures.
- Long-Term Storage: If storing the battery unused for over a month, leave it at 50%–70% charge and check it every 6–8 weeks. Do not store it at 0% or 100%.
- Washing Rules: Never use a high-pressure power washer. Use a damp microfiber cloth and mild bike wash. Avoid spraying water directly into the charging port, display, or motor housing.
How Often Should I Clean and Lubricate My E-Bike Chain?
Clean and lubricate your e-bike chain every 100 to 150 miles (160–240 km) under normal dry riding conditions, or roughly every 2 to 4 weeks for regular commuters.
Because mid-drive and high-torque hub motors put significantly more strain and wear on the drivetrain than traditional bicycles, regular chain maintenance is critical to prevent premature cassette and chainring wear.
Recommended Maintenance Schedule
| Riding Condition | Frequency | Focus |
|---|---|---|
| Dry Pavement & Light Commuting | Every 100–150 miles (2–4 weeks) | Quick wipe-down, re-lube, and excess wipe-off |
| Wet, Rainy, or Winter/Salt Roads | After every wet ride or every 50 miles | Immediately dry, degrease grit, and apply wet lube |
| Dusty, Sandy, or Off-Road/Trail | Every 50–75 miles | Fully degrease to clear grinding paste; use dry lube |
Quick Rules for E-Bikes
- Choose the Right Lube: Use dry lube (wax or Teflon-based) for dry or dusty conditions to prevent dirt buildup, and wet lube for rainy, muddy, or winter conditions to resist water wash-off. E-bike-specific lubricants are formulated with extra shear resistance for high-torque motors.
- Never Spray Directly Near the Motor or Brakes: Avoid aerosol sprays near disc brake rotors, pads, or bottom-bracket motor housings. Use drip-bottle lubricants directly on the chain links.
- Always Wipe Away the Excess: Apply one drop per chain link onto the inner side of the chain while backpedaling. Let it penetrate for 5–10 minutes, then thoroughly wipe the exterior of the chain with a clean rag. The lube only needs to be inside the rollers—excess lube on the outside acts as a magnet for abrasive dirt.
- Check Chain Wear Frequently: Use a chain checker tool every 500 miles. E-bike chains often reach the 0.5% or 0.75% stretch limit faster than traditional bikes. Replacing the chain early helps prevent expensive motor-driven chainrings and cassettes from wearing out.
Can I Use a Pressure Washer to Clean My E-Bike?
No, you should never use a pressure washer on an e-bike.
Even at low settings, high-pressure water can easily force its way past protective rubber seals, enter sensitive electrical components such as the motor, battery terminals, display, and wiring harnesses, and blast grease out of critical mechanical bearings such as the bottom bracket, wheel hubs, headset, and suspension pivots.
Safe Way to Wash an E-Bike
1. Prep the Bike
- Turn off the bike system completely.
- If the battery is removable, you can either keep it locked in place to protect the internal cavity pins or remove it and cover the contact terminals with a dry cloth or plastic bag.
- Keep the bike upright on its wheels or a stand—never flip it upside down, as water can pool inside the motor housing.
2. Rinse Gently
- Use a standard garden hose on a gentle shower setting, or a bucket of water with a soft sponge.
- Wet the frame, fork, and tires while avoiding direct streams at the handlebar display, throttle, charging port, and motor housing.
3. Apply Cleaner & Agitate
- Spray a bike-specific cleaner or mild soapy water across the dirty areas.
- Use soft-bristle brushes or microfiber cloths to loosen mud and grime on the frame.
- Use a dedicated drivetrain degreaser and stiff brush for the chain, cassette, and chainrings.
4. Gentle Final Rinse
- Use low-pressure water to rinse away all soap and lifted dirt.
5. Dry & Relubricate
- Bounce the bike gently on its tires to shake off standing water.
- Wipe the bike down thoroughly with clean microfiber towels, paying close attention to battery interfaces and electrical connections.
- Let it air dry completely in a ventilated area before powering it on or plugging in a charger.
- Apply bicycle chain lube to the dry chain and wipe off excess.
How Do I Maintain the E-Bike Battery to Make It Last Longer?
To maximize the lifespan and usable capacity of a lithium-ion e-bike battery, focus on temperature control, charge levels, and proper storage habits.
1. Daily Charging & State of Charge
- Follow the 20%–80% Rule: Lithium-ion cells experience the most chemical stress when completely full or completely empty. For regular daily commutes, keeping the battery between 20% and 80% charge can significantly increase total cycle life.
- Avoid Deep Discharges (0%): Never run the battery down until the bike cuts off power. Recharge when it drops to around 20%–30%.
- Charge to 100% Only Before Long Rides: If you need full range, charge to 100% shortly before departing rather than letting it sit fully charged for days.
- Unplug Once Charged: Avoid leaving the battery connected to the charger indefinitely once it reaches 100%.
2. Temperature Management
- Never Charge Below Freezing (32°F / 0°C): Charging at freezing temperatures causes permanent lithium plating on the anode, creating an internal short hazard and permanently reducing capacity. Always bring the battery indoors and let it reach room temperature before plugging it in.
- Avoid Extreme Heat (Above 110°F / 45°C): High heat accelerates chemical degradation faster than any other factor. Avoid parking in direct sunlight on hot days or leaving the battery in a hot car trunk.
- Let It Cool Before Charging: After a hard or hot ride, allow the battery to sit for 15–30 minutes to cool down before connecting the charger.
3. Long-Term Storage (Off-Season / Winter)
- Store at 40%–60% Charge (Around 3.8V per Cell): If storing the bike for more than a few weeks, leave the charge level at roughly half capacity.
- Store in a Cool, Dry Place: Ideal storage temperatures are between 50°F and 68°F (10°C–20°C).
- Check Every 1–2 Months: All batteries experience slow self-discharge. Check the level every 30–60 days and top it back up to 50%–60% if it has dropped below 30%.
4. Physical Care & Cleaning
- Keep Terminals Clean and Dry: Inspect the metal contact points periodically. If dirty, wipe them with a dry cloth or electrical contact cleaner.
- Never Pressure-Wash the Battery: While e-bike batteries are water-resistant against rain, high-pressure water can penetrate seals and damage the Battery Management System (BMS). Use a damp cloth to clean the housing.
- Always Use the Manufacturer's Charger: Mismatched voltages, amperages, or charging profiles can degrade cells prematurely or bypass built-in safety protections.
How Often Should I Check and Replace My E-Bike Brake Pads?
E-bike brake pads experience substantially more wear than standard bicycle pads due to higher speeds and overall vehicle weight.
How Often to Check
- Frequency: Inspect them every 200 to 300 miles (or once a month). If you ride daily, commute in heavy rain or grit, or tackle steep descents, check them every 1 to 2 weeks.
- Quick Visual Check: Look through the caliper opening with a flashlight to gauge the remaining friction material on the backing plate.
How Often to Replace
- Mileage Interval: Most e-bike brake pads last between 500 and 1,500 miles (800 to 2,400 km).
- Resin / Organic Pads: Around 500–1,000 miles — quieter, but wear faster.
- Sintered / Metallic Pads: Around 1,000–2,000 miles — better heat dissipation and longer life in wet or muddy terrain.
Key Signs It Is Time to Replace
- Pad Material Thickness: Replace when the friction material, excluding the metal backing plate, wears down to 1.5 mm (roughly the thickness of a US dime or credit card). Never let it wear past 1 mm.
- Noise: A metallic grinding or scraping sound indicates the friction material is gone and the metal backing plate is contacting the rotor.
- Braking Performance: Longer stopping distances, a "spongy" brake lever feel, or levers pulling all the way to the handlebars to engage.
- Contamination: Loss of stopping power paired with loud squealing caused by oil, chain lube, or road debris soaking into the pad compound.
- Uneven Wear: One side wearing significantly faster than the other, usually caused by a sticky caliper piston.
What Tire Pressure (PSI) Should I Maintain on an E-Bike?
The ideal tire pressure for an e-bike depends primarily on tire width, rider weight, and riding terrain. Because e-bikes are heavier than standard bicycles—typically adding 20–30 lbs—and carry higher average speeds, they generally require slightly higher pressures to prevent pinch flats and rim damage.
Recommended Tire Pressure by Category
| E-Bike / Tire Type | Typical Width | Recommended Range | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fat Tire | 4.0"–4.8" | 8–20 PSI | Snow, loose sand (8–12 PSI); paved trails/commute (15–20 PSI) |
| Cargo / Heavy Duty | 2.4"–2.8" | 35–50 PSI | Hauling heavy cargo/passengers; maximizes payload support |
| Commuter / Hybrid | 1.75"–2.2" (45–55 mm) | 40–60 PSI | Smooth pavement, city roads, mixed gravel paths |
| Road / Speed Pedelec | 1.1"–1.4" (28–35 mm) | 60–80 PSI | Smooth tarmac, low rolling resistance |
How to Fine-Tune Your PSI
1. Check the Tire Sidewall First
Every tire has a molded manufacturer range, for example:
MIN 30 - MAX 50 PSI
Never exceed the maximum PSI, and never drop below the minimum unless riding a fat tire on loose sand or snow.
2. Adjust for Weight Distribution
- Put 2–4 PSI more in the rear tire than the front. The rear wheel carries roughly 60–70% of the total rider and motor/battery weight.
- If total payload (rider + gear + cargo) exceeds 200 lbs (90 kg), run toward the upper end of the recommended range.
3. Balance Speed vs. Comfort
- Higher PSI: Decreases rolling resistance, increases battery efficiency/range, and protects rims, but delivers a stiffer, rougher ride.
- Lower PSI: Increases tire surface contact, improves traction on wet or loose surfaces, and acts as natural shock absorption.
A Practical E-Bike to Maintain: Himiway D5 2.0 20"
If you want an e-bike that combines everyday practicality with all-terrain capability, the Himiway D5 2.0 20" is worth considering. Its compact 20-inch design makes it easier to handle and store, while the full-suspension setup and fat tires provide extra comfort and traction on pavement, gravel, and rougher trails.
The D5 2.0 20" is powered by a 750W motor with up to 90 Nm of torque, making it suitable for hills, heavier loads, and mixed-terrain riding. It also offers a 48V 15Ah battery, up to 70 miles of pedal-assist range, and a 440 lb payload capacity.
Like any high-powered fat-tire e-bike, it benefits from the maintenance habits covered above. Check tire pressure regularly, keep the drivetrain clean and lubricated, inspect brake pads and spoke tension, and avoid using a pressure washer around the battery, motor, display, or electrical connections. Riders who frequently use the D5 2.0 20" on dusty, muddy, or wet surfaces should shorten these maintenance intervals accordingly.
For riders looking for a compact full-suspension fat-tire e-bike that can handle commuting, recreational riding, and light off-road use, the Himiway D5 2.0 20" offers a versatile option—as long as you give its tires, brakes, battery, and drivetrain the regular care that any performance-oriented e-bike requires.
Do E-Bike Motors Require Regular Internal Maintenance?
No, most e-bike motors are designed as sealed units that do not require routine internal maintenance under normal riding conditions.
Manufacturers typically advise against opening the motor casing, as doing so often voids the warranty and can compromise the weather-resistant seals.
Why Most Motors Don't Need Routine Teardowns
- Direct-Drive Hub Motors: These have no internal gears and feature only one moving part—the shell spinning on bearings around the stator. Besides the external sealed bearings, there are no internal mechanical parts to wear down or lubricate.
- Geared Hub & Mid-Drive Motors: These contain internal reduction gears, often made of nylon, composite, or steel, packed with synthetic grease at the factory. The grease is formulated to last the practical lifespan of the motor—typically thousands of miles—without needing regular repacking.
When Internal Service Is Actually Needed
While routine internal maintenance is not scheduled like an oil change, internal components can wear down or fail over high mileage, typically 5,000–10,000+ miles, or due to severe conditions:
- Stripped or Worn Nylon Gears: Hard acceleration, heavy loads, or sudden impacts can strip gear teeth, leading to grinding noises, motor slippage, or loss of power.
- Bearing Replacement: Water ingress or grit penetration can contaminate the internal bearings, causing roughness, play, or whining noises.
- Water Damage & Corrosion: Submerging the motor or washing it with high-pressure water can bypass seals, corroding the stator, magnets, or internal controller boards.
- Dried or Contaminated Grease: In extreme climates or under sustained heavy loads, factory grease can degrade, requiring cleaning and re-greasing with a compatible synthetic lubricant, such as Mobilith SHC 100 or manufacturer-specified greases safe for nylon.
What You Should Do Instead
- Avoid Pressure Washers: Never blast high-pressure water at the bottom bracket, axle nuts, or motor seams. Use a damp rag or gentle rinse.
- Inspect External Cables & Seals: Check the wiring harness where it enters the motor axle or housing for cuts, frays, or loose weather-sealing boots.
- Monitor Mounting Bolts: Check motor mount bolts on mid-drives or axle torque arm nuts on hub motors periodically to ensure proper torque.
- Listen for Changes: A healthy brushless motor produces a consistent hum. Grinding, clicking, or rattling sounds indicate that internal gears or bearings require professional inspection or replacement.
How Do I Know If My E-Bike Spokes Are Loose?
Check for loose spokes using three quick tests:
1. The Squeeze Test (Physical Check)
Go around the wheel and firmly squeeze parallel pairs of crossed spokes together using your thumb and fingers.
- Normal: The spokes should feel firm and deflect only slightly, about 1–2 mm, with moderate pressure.
- Loose: If a spoke feels floppy, bends significantly more than its neighbors, or feels soft to the touch, it has lost tension.
2. The Pluck / Ping Test (Sound Check)
Lightly tap or pluck each spoke with a metal tool, such as a small wrench, screwdriver, or Allen key, or use your fingernail, similar to plucking a guitar string.
- Normal: A properly tensioned spoke produces a clear, relatively high-pitched "ping" or "ring."
- Loose: A loose spoke produces a flat, dull "thud" or rattling sound.
3. The Wiggle Test (Hub and Nipple Check)
Grasp individual spokes near the nipple, where the spoke meets the rim, and near the hub, then gently push and pull side to side.
- Loose: If the spoke physically wiggles in the rim hole or rattles at the hub flange, it is dangerously loose and needs immediate tightening.
Warning Signs While Riding
Because e-bikes, especially hub-motor models, generate high torque and carry extra weight, loose rear spokes often reveal themselves through:
- Creaking, clicking, or pinging noises from the wheel when accelerating or pedaling hard under load.
- Wheel wobble / out of true: The wheel rubs against the frame, fender, or brake pads.
- Spongy or imprecise rear-end handling in corners.
What Tools Do I Need for a Basic DIY E-Bike Maintenance Kit?
A basic DIY e-bike maintenance kit focuses on keeping fasteners secure, tires inflated, the high-torque drivetrain clean, and electrical connections protected.
1. Fastener & Adjustment Tools
E-bikes experience more vibration and weight stress than traditional bicycles, making precise fastener maintenance essential.
- Hex & Torx Keys (2 mm–10 mm, T25/T30): Needed for handlebars, display mounts, brake levers, and rack bolts.
- Torque Wrench (2–15 Nm): Prevents over-tightening critical bolts on stems, seatposts, and motor brackets.
- Open-End Wrenches (15 mm / 18 mm): Essential for pedal removal and axle nuts on hub-motor wheels.
The Crankbrothers Multi 19 Tool packs essential hex keys, Torx bits, and spoke wrenches into a durable body for roadside adjustments.
The Topeak Alien II Tool offers a comprehensive 26-function folding design equipped with built-in wrenches and chain tools.
Pedro's Demi Torque Wrench II delivers precise 3–15 Nm tightening control to prevent stripped bolts on sensitive cockpit components.
2. Tire & Wheel Care
Because e-bikes are heavier, proper tire pressure prevents pinch flats and maximizes battery range.
- Floor Pump & Accurate Pressure Gauge: Ensures tires stay at manufacturer-recommended PSI.
- Heavy-Duty Tire Levers: Standard plastic levers can snap on reinforced, puncture-resistant e-bike tires.
- Tire Patch Kit or Tubeless Plugs: For quick roadside flat repairs.
The Topeak SmartGauge D2 provides fast digital tire pressure readings compatible with both Presta and Schrader valves.
The Topeak D2X Digital Pressure Gauge features a swiveling head and air-release button for fine-tuning exact tire pressure.
3. Drivetrain Cleaning & Lubrication
Motor power puts significantly higher torque and wear on chains, cassettes, and chainrings.
- E-Bike-Specific Chain Lubricant: Formulated to withstand higher torque loads and reduce friction.
- Drivetrain Degreaser & Brushes: Cleans grime without damaging motor housing seals.
- Chain Wear Checker: Alerts you when a chain stretches before it damages expensive cassettes.
The Muc-Off eBike Clean Protect & Lube Kit provides cleaning sprays and dedicated high-torque chain lube tailored for electric drivetrains.
Squirt Ebike Chain Wax creates a dry, long-lasting wax coating that repels dirt under high-stress motor loads.
4. Electrical & Brake Upkeep
- Electrical Contact Cleaner: Keeps battery terminals, sensors, and wiring harness plugs free of dirt and corrosion.
- Isopropyl Alcohol (90%+): Cleans disc brake rotors and pads without leaving oil residues.
- Dielectric Grease: Protects external electrical connections from moisture and water ingress.
How Do I Check for Firmware Updates on My E-Bike?
Checking for and installing firmware updates depends on the drive system and motor manufacturer your e-bike uses.
Method 1: Companion Smartphone App (Over-the-Air / Bluetooth)
Most modern smart e-bikes, such as Bosch Smart System, Specialized, Shimano STEPS, Mahle, Aventon, Velotric, Rad Power, and Himiway, manage updates wirelessly:
- Charge Both Devices: Ensure your phone is fully charged and your e-bike battery is at least 50% charged to prevent the bike from shutting off mid-update.
- Open the Manufacturer App: Launch the companion app, such as Bosch eBike Flow, Specialized App, Shimano E-TUBE PROJECT, or your specific brand's app.
- Connect via Bluetooth: Turn on your bike display/system and pair it with your phone.
- Check for Updates:
- Go to Settings, My Bike, or System.
- Look for Firmware Update, Software Version, or Check for Updates.
- If a new version is available, tap Download & Install.
- Keep the Connection Stable: Keep the phone close to the bike and do not turn off the e-bike or close the app until the installation completes.
Method 2: PC Connection via USB
Some drive systems, such as older or performance-oriented Shimano STEPS or Bafang systems, use desktop diagnostic software:
- Download the official diagnostic software, such as Shimano E-TUBE PROJECT Professional for Windows.
- Connect your PC to the bike's charging/display port using the manufacturer's proprietary SM-PCE interface or a compatible USB-to-UART bridge cable.
- Open the software, run a system check, and select Update Firmware for detected components such as the motor, battery, display, and shifters.
Method 3: Certified Dealer / Service Center Diagnostics
Older non-smart systems, such as legacy Bosch eBike System 2 with Purion/Intuvia/Kiox, Yamaha PW series, or Giant RideControl without BLE, cannot be updated over the air:
- These systems require a proprietary diagnostic dongle connected to a certified dealer portal.
- Bring the bike to an authorized local bike shop for a diagnostic scan and firmware flash during routine maintenance.
When Should I Take My E-Bike to a Professional Mechanic?
You should take your e-bike to a certified mechanic whenever you encounter electrical issues, critical safety component failures, or reach standard service intervals.
1. Critical Safety & Electrical Issues — Visit Immediately
Stop riding and take the bike to a certified e-bike technician if you experience any of the following:
- Electrical Error Codes & Power Cutouts: Unresolved dashboard error codes, sudden motor cutouts under load, or intermittent power loss that basic wire/cable reseating doesn't fix.
- Battery or Charging Abnormalities: A battery casing that is swollen, cracked, unusually hot to the touch during charging or riding, or failing to hold a charge.
- Motor Abnormalities: Grinding, crunching, or clicking noises coming from a hub or mid-drive motor, or noticeable resistance when pedaling with the assist off.
- Hydraulic Brake Failure: Levers pulling completely to the handlebars (spongy feel), fluid leaking from calipers or hoses, or persistent loss of stopping power that a pad replacement does not resolve and requires bleeding.
- Structural Frame or Fork Damage: Cracks, deep dents, or alignment shifts in the frame, welds, or front suspension fork.
2. Routine Maintenance Intervals
Even without symptoms, schedule tune-ups based on mileage and time:
| Interval | Service Needed |
|---|---|
| First 100–200 Miles (Break-In) | Spoke tensioning, cable stretch adjustment, bolt torque verification |
| Every 1,000–1,500 Miles (or 6 Months) | Drivetrain wear assessment (chain/cassette stretch), brake bleed, firmware updates, wheel truing |
| Every 2,500–3,000 Miles (or Annually) | Full overhaul: suspension fork service, motor/bottom bracket inspection, headset and hub bearing repacking/replacement |
3. Complex Mechanical Tasks — Unless You Have Specialized Tools
Certain jobs require specific tools and calibration to handle the higher speeds and weight of an e-bike:
- Wheel Truing & Spoke Replacement: E-bikes put significantly more torque on rear wheels; improper tensioning causes rim warping or broken spokes.
- Drivetrain Overhauls: Replacing worn mid-drive chainrings, press-fit bottom brackets, or internal gear hubs such as Enviolo or Rohloff.
- Firmware Diagnostics: Proprietary motor systems such as Bosch, Shimano STEPS, Brose, and Bafang often require dealer-level diagnostic software to update firmware, calibrate torque sensors, or run system diagnostics.
What You Can Usually Handle at Home
- Cleaning and lubricating the chain.
- Checking and maintaining tire pressure, which is crucial for range and preventing pinch flats.
- Basic mechanical cable barrel adjustments for minor shifting lag.
- Swapping standard brake pads before they wear down to the metal backing plate.
